IMCS Guides' Blog

Ice Fest is on Schedule!

2009-10-30T10:01:00.000-07:00

Come join us for the 2010 Mount Washington Valley Ice Festival!
We're hosting a long, fun filled weekend of ice climbing, mountaineering programs and skill clinics for all ability levels. There will also be gear demo programs, celebrity slideshows, and apres-climb parties. This years guest Guides and Instructors are Steve House, Jared Ogden, Mark Synnott, Kevin Mahoney, Janet Bergman and Fred Wilkinson.
Visit our website for more!

The Mount Washington Valley Ice Festival is one of the premier climbing events in the country. Join us as we celebrate the adventure, the fun, and the comradery of ice climbing and winter mountaineering, here in one of the finest waterfall ice climbing destinations in North America. This year we are also offering an AIARE Level I Avalanche Course.

Sign up Today! 603-356-7064
We are now taking reservations for Ice Fest 2010 courses and clinics. You must register in advance for all clinics and climbs, payment must be made in full . If you have questions about a specific clinic or guided climb please give us a call at 603-356-7064.Let us know what you want to do and we will do our best to find the right fit or we can design a private course for you. Sign up Now!

Time Off

2009-02-10T08:00:00.000-08:00

It is not only great guiding that sets the guides at IMCS apart from the many guide services in the Mount Washington Valley. Here at IMCS when we are not teaching others how to do what we love we are out ‘getting after it’, climbing harder, higher, and stronger.

In the beginning of this February IMCS guide Eitan Green went on his second trip to Maine’s Mount Katahdin. At 5,270 feet high Katahdin is Maine’s tallest peak and as Rick Wilcox writes, “the most rugged piece of granite east of the Rockies.

Eitan and three other climbers skied 13 miles and hiked another 3.3 miles to Chimney pond where they made their base camp. From chimney pond the group climbed about 1,500 feet of mixed rock and ice up the route Pamola IV. Katahdin offers spectacular alpine ice and mixed routes, some over 2,000 feet tall. For those who have been-there-done-that on Mount Washington, a trip to Katahdin is truly something special.

Ice Fest 2009

2009-02-09T14:08:00.000-08:00

This year we proved that an army does march on its stomachs. Jam packed days of ice climbing with the pros were followed by food from NEIce's Doug Millen and beer provided by Tuckermans. When the food and beer were gone, we all got up early and did it again!

Ice Festers alpine climbed in Huntington's ravine, Mixed climbed at Trollville, and did some good ole' swingin' and kickin' at Frankenstein cliffs. Collectively, ice festers covered tens of thousands of feet of vertical terrain in the Mount Washington Valley. If you were there, you know how amazing the IceHoldz competition was as well as Kevin's slideshow about climbing Kantega, and I am sure you didn't miss the musical stylings of Audio Kickstand or Rick Wilcox's retro photos at Mammut's Knuckle Bash Dance Party.

If you did miss the ice fest, well, put it on your calender for next year right now, or, even better, give IMCS a call and schedual your own day of spectacular ice climbing or mountaineering in the Mount Washington Valley. For those who came, see you next year!

Oh Yeah, and a HUGE thanks to Anne S. and Sarah G., the Ice Fest masterminds for an incredible weekend!

Bring your Friends!

2009-01-26T05:35:00.000-08:00

Going ice climbing is awesome. Having your friends cheer you on as you swing your tools is even better. At IMCS if you bring a group we can help you put together an ideal weekend group-adventure.

The intrepid members of the Colby College Outing Club from Waterville, Maine participated in a two day mountain skills course.

Jim F. teaches club members how to hang off their tools, Photo: Eitan G.

Club members learned mountaineering skills like self arrest and crampon techniques then spent the rest of the day swinging tools into frozen waterfalls. Tired but smiling, the Outing Club members went back to their hostel to prepare the second day's mountain adventure.

Colby College Outing Club members swing into the steep ice at the Texaco Area, photo: Eitan G.

On day two the club members split up into groups to tackle some of the exciting gully climbs in the Whites. Fun and adventure was had by all on Willey's Slide, Cauliflower Gully, Hitchcock Gully and in other areas. The smiles said it all.

Climbing with a group from a college, office, or any other organization is a great way to share an incredible adventure with friends. Have a group? give us a call!

Lauren of Minnesota cruises one of New Hampshire's classic gullies, photo: Eitan G.

William, Sarah, and Lauren, All smiles at the top of the gully, photo: Eitan G.

Colby College Outing Club, we hope to see you again soon!

Way Out There

2009-01-23T14:45:00.000-08:00

When people think about winter adventures in New Hampshire they usually dwell on a few classics. Oft heard names like, Mount Washington, Crawford Notch, and Franconia Notch are home to some of the areas most popular hikes and climbs. These areas are popular for a two reasons, they are incredible and they get a lot of press! What many people don't know, is that there are plenty of other spectacular sites for adventure in the Whites that are as phenomenal. These hidden treasures simply don't have as good PR and as such, lack the hoards of weekend warriors that come through the notches.

IMCS Guide Maury Mckinney took his clients on a three-day, two-night winter backpacking excursion into the rugged Mahoosucs on the New Hampshire-Maine boarder. The group spent their days hiking through tranquil and seldom seen winter landscapes that stretched as if endless. As they hiked, the group didn't see a single other soul giving their experience a true wilderness flavor.

With so many years experience in the area, guides like Maury take clients to parts of the Whites they never even knew existed. Sure we can take you to the more popular winter mountaineering destinations. However, if you really want to tap into the knowledge your guide has to offer, consider an adventure, 'way out there'.

School on Vacation?!

2009-01-21T17:10:00.000-08:00

While the guides at IMCS love to lead people up the climbs of their dreams we don't forget that we are a climbing school, not only a guide service, and we pride ourselves on our knowledge about climbing and ability to share that knowledge with others.

In fact, at any moment during a climb you could ask your guide what they are doing, why, and how and expect to learn something. Sure, we love to climb, but this is International Mountain Climbing School, we are here to teach.

Benni and Yitzi of the 'burbs of Boston take a break from swinging tools to learn about v-thread anchors, "look ma' no hands!"

A Spot O' Climbing in the Colonies

2009-01-21T16:28:00.000-08:00

While some of David's limey colloquialisms left IMCS guide Eitan Green confused, after two days of spectacular New England gully climbing in Crawford Notch it was obvious what David of Bristol, UK meant when he smiled and said he was, "totally knackered".

David was looking for a winter mountain adventure that would remind him of his home stomping grounds on Scotland's Ben Nevis but that would step the technical climbing up a notch. Eitan chose Shoestring Gully on Mount
David cruising the Ice on Shoestring Gully
Photo: Eitan Green
Webster as the perfect site for David's

adventure. Luckily, the gully's southern aspect meant the two were exposed to the sun for the majority of the day and they stayed comfortable, despite the extremely cold temperatures.

The next day the pair took on Mount Willard's Hitchcock Gully which, though a bit shorter than Shoestring, stepped up the technical difficulties a bit. By the end of the two days David's huge grin and his invitation for a pint said it all. David on the exit gully at the top of Shoestring, still smiling
Photo: Eitan Green

Choose Your Line

2009-01-18T12:07:00.000-08:00

Richard P. about to top out Repentance in" full conditions." -photo: Peter Doucette

What can I get in, or on, in a weekend?

It’s a question I hear frequently as climbing goals, life, and work schedules collide.

The answer, of course, varies a great deal with the skill set an individual has already developed. That said, an amazing transformation in one’s climbing technique and enjoyment of the pursuit can take place in a couple days with a thoughtful choice of routes and the right progression.

My best climbs are those that teach me: routes that have required me to adapt my technique, find rests where I wasn’t sure they existed or ferret out not so obvious protection. This is the case, I think, no matter where you are in the spectrum of climbing skill or experience. On great climbs, there is always a move or set of moves that stretch your skills, strength and sense of cunning. Acknowledge challenges, recognize possibility, measure it against experience and commit… or back off and try a different way…or come back another time. As long as you’re getting after it, the process builds on itself. The right teacher, in the form of friend, guide, or mentor can accelerate the learning and help maintain a larger margin of safety.

Choosing climbs that teach you something, adventures that challenge you without being overwhelming is the main idea. This past weekend, I got out with Richard and we were able to climb some exceptional pitches and ultra classic terrain.

Saturday, we started by shaking off the cold and working the kinks out in the vicinity of Texaco Amphitheater. The air temp was –10 when we left IMCS in the morning, but by the time we had finished our half-hour approach, the coldest part of the day was behind us. We enjoyed the sun and the gradually softening ice as we explored a lot of single pitches and a huge variety of features. Pillars that dead ended under roofs, curtains spilling out from horizontal cracks and ice choked chimneys were ideal for getting footwork and balance dialed in.

Richard staying fresh at the top of one more steep pillar. -photo: Peter Doucette

Sunny and steep at Texaco. -photos: Peter Doucette

After a day that focused on technique and movement over seven varied pitches, Richard had his “A Game” back and we set our sights on an ascent of Repentance, Sunday.

Rolling into the parking lot at Cathedral Ledge, it was clear that snow wasn't just the forecast, it was the reality. Fortunately, the 4 inches of fresh powder let us know there wasn’t anyone ahead of us. It continued to snow with amazing intensity and the day was regularly punctuated by cascades of spindrift.

Repentance was in excellent shape and Richard fired the moves in good style the entire way.

2009-01-18T05:15:00.000-08:00

A Super Nice Cold Classic Day of Ice Climbing with IMCS. Guide Zebulon Jakub and climber Bill Breyer!

Frankenstein. Standard Route. Crawford Notch!

Gearing up at Frankenstein!

Super nice footwork on the way up.

Still on great but super nice hard brittle ice!

Bill Breyer in SUPER style on the top pillar!

Here Bill Breyer gets up top!

A Season For The Opportunist

2009-01-07T11:05:00.000-08:00

Majka Burhardt heads for the belay below the cave on Omega Dec '08 Photo: Peter Doucette
It’s probably “IN” right now--the route that you’ve been wanting to get on. This season has already displayed a wild mix of conditions with routes forming and falling off and growing back again. So far, it’s been a season for the opportunist.

Just before Christmas it was Omega with ice, yellow and alive stretching uncharacteristically to the ground! Majka and I climbed it on a bone cold but eventually enjoyable day.

Majka, high on Quartet. Photo by Peter Doucette

The next highlight of my season was climbing Quartet to the top of Cannon. Well-formed first pitches led to more mixed ground and welcome turf placements. After the first two pitches it was all new ground for me. We discovered an old fixed anchor (pin and nut) in the middle of nowhere, five or so pitches into our adventure. I took the piton out with a thumb and forefinger then replaced it with a little fresh steel. A final smear of ice and a delicate move to top one last overlap, allowed us to gain the scrubby trees crowning the cliff. The walk across to the descent trail above the Whitney-Gilman, was a bit of a “shwack” with some chest deep wallowing and sporty boulder-hopping adding to the full-value Cannon experience.

More recently, Cathedral has come into its own with Repentance and Remission both well formed. The chimney on Remission was wild before the thaw, with a lattice of ice and verglas that was better for visual appreciation than upward gain. Still, we persevered, finding gear just when things started to look desperate and topped out remembering exactly how good the winter climbing on Cathedral really is.

Just the other day, I snuck in three routes on Frankenstein- all new to me. A mixed line beginning on rock and exiting on ice in the vicinity of Widow’s Run, was steep, requiring a few balancey maneuvers above decent protection. Cocaine and Wrath of the Valkyrie (in the amphitheater left of the Fang) were also in spectacular shape. The final moves of each were a little touch-and-go but remained just probable enough to make me commit.

Peter Doucette, right of Widow's Walk. Photo: Majka Burhardt

Majka climbing Cocaine Jan'09. Photo by Peter Doucette

*History/humor note: On the second ascent of Wrath of the Valkyries. The leader tossed a rack of pitons, attached to a rope, which tangled in a birch tree. The rope was then ascended to gain the last twenty feet. For those who are interested, there are now a few fixed pieces that can be supplemented to protect the exit dry-tooling. Though, for those feeling lucky the piton/birch option remains.

The feeling of reaching the top of these rarely formed routes or swinging into a column or smear that may only exist a hand full of days a year is extremely satisfying. As someone who waits and watches and seeks out ephemeral ice lines I’m fired up every time the conditions and my climbing days align. The good news is, the season is in full swing. Now, quality options abound and satisfaction, in the frozen form, is that much easier to come by.

The weather and cold temps seems to be stabilizing at least for a while. This should give climbs a chance to gain a little more mass and perhaps let more rarely formed routes to develop. Mid-week has been quiet at the cliffs, so if there’s a classic but often crowded climb you’re interested in getting on, give IMCS a call.

Echo Crag Ice Climbing (one cold day)

2008-12-20T07:02:00.000-08:00

A very cold day with beautiful snow and Annalisa Weygandt and I (Zebulon Jakub) braved the cold to get a nice New England Ice Climbing experience under our belts. Here are some photos!!

Echo Crag is located North of Cannon off the road with a nice and easy trail to walk in on.

Here are some photos as well a little Artistic flare!!

SNOW KITING DEC 13 2008

2008-12-13T09:42:00.001-08:00

In Mount Washington Valley there is just enough snow to really get out and snowkite. I had a fun day!

Here is how it all works..... the kite pulls you like a snowmobile per say...thekite acts throttle and steering mechanism....

Wearing skiis and or a snowboard is awsome and can be very rewarding no matter what your skill level!

Wearing a harness from a climbing background or an actual kiting harness is perfect for connecting yourself to the kite!

Hope everyone has a great day!!

Mount Washington Ascent Dec 7, 2008

2008-12-09T06:02:00.000-08:00

Mount Washington Ascent Decmeber 7, 2008

Dec 7 2008 Guides Zebulon Jakub (me) and Sam Bendroth guided a group of 6 climbers on Mount Washington.

Our groups started early with breakfast at the Nereledge Inn. After we all pooled into our cars and headed up to Pinkham Notch where we moved quickly on the Tuckerman's Ravine trail. We all naturally split into our groups and moved up the trail at our own respective speeds. We then quickly gained the Lions Head "summer" route. There we put on crampons and started up the trail and breached the tree line to find calm and beautiful conditions under a slightly cloudy sky.

As we all climbed, we reached Lions Head at about 10:45am and there went into a group of hree, that were summit bound. I (Guide Zebulon Jakub) and climbers Gloria Garcia, Robyn Metcalfe, and Stephen Pearse left Lions Head determined to summit Mount Washington in increasingly poor conditions as the clouds were dropping and the snow started to fall horizontally with the increasing wind.

Meanwhile, Guide Sam Bendroth and climbers Scott Hamilton, Bob Metcalfe, and Alan Valdes continued up a bit past Lions Head where they decided to call it a good successful day on Mount Washington.

In the meantime I, with, Gloria, Robyn, and Stephen where in white out conditions working our way through the Rime Ice covered rocks towards the summit. Then, at about 1:00pm our group all found their way to the summit in ever increasing wind and poor visibility. After a brief stop in the summit shelter, we all turned a quick spin on our heels to start our way down to the cars....just a mere 4.2 miles down the trail.
Below are some pictures of our trip and a close look at the way the weather indeed changed. Congratulations to Gloria, Robyn, and Stephen for a hard climb and well earned summit on Mount Washington! Also, a very honorable mention to Alan, Scott, and Bob for great effort and good spirit on their adventure up high onto Mount Washington's Lions Head ridge and Alpine Garden!

Brad White Early Season Ice Thanksgiving Weekend

2008-12-05T13:24:00.000-08:00

Paul Cormier on Ace Of Spades November 30/2008

Paul Cormier on Overbid Nov 30/2008

I visited Tuckerman’s ravine last week, Standard on Frankenstein Friday and Ace of Spades in Franconia Notch on Sunday of Thanksgiving weekend. The ice was much better that expected on Ace of Spades and IMCS Guide Paul Cormier even led the difficult column on the left (Overbid)that rarely forms.

Standard 2nd Pitch Nov 28/2008

Rob Insolia on Standard Nov 28/2008

Rob Insolia on Standard November 28/2008

Early Season

2008-12-03T19:41:00.000-08:00

Early season ice climbing is something to get excited about and this year has not disappointed.

Thin and mixed options are in abundance right now. The ice that exists is newly formed and has yet to see the full spectrum of temperature swings, so it’s more accepting of a pick. Early season requires a tempered, deliberate approach and mildly OCD behavior. The limited quantity of ice forces one to exercise all options, rock and ice movement skills and all forms of trickery for upward gain…over-tuned picks don’t hurt either.

*Chris Marks gaining "the hose" on pitch 2 of the Black Dike, Novemeber 22nd, 2008

My season has already included a couple states and one province.

My first day this ice season was on Pike’s Peak in Colorado, when Majka Burhardt and I drove, yes drove, to 13,000+ feet and enjoyed oxygen-lean ascents either side of the Corinthian Column. Blind Assumption and Total Abandon were the perfect combination of ice and mixed ground with chockstone cruxes and delicate verglas maneuvers that kept my mind slightly more engaged than my front points.

The next icy outing was back home, on Cannon Cliffs, a playground that’s always on my mind in November. I’ve gazed fervently at ice reports, photos, and weather forecasts for the notches in NH while in dirtbag motels in the Canadian Rockies and wondered if I should have stayed home… are conditions really as good as they look? Will Omega come in overnight? I’d ask myself this not wanting to let my climbing partner know I’m questioning the current pilgrimage to “The Mecca.” So this year I delayed Canada and stayed in the Northeast.

My first day out on Cannon this season was with Janet Bergman. We scraped and laughed our way up the Black Dike in temps that seems colder than they were, while watching the odd icicle plunge from Fafnir’s sunny top-out. The ice was great, but there wasn’t much of it-- the protection was exclusively rock gear. We cruised into the partially frozen turf and hustled down the Whitney-Gilman descent trial driving directly to Rumney for a few sport pitches at to finish out the day--a November day in New Hampshire, indeed.

* Silas Rossi, on the move and enjoying the mixed medium on Cannon, 2008.

Two other Cannon adventures followed, the first with Silas Rossi, included a scrappy snow covered ascent of Wiessner’s Buttress later following the drainage to its left, topping out a few hundred feet south of the Old Man’s cable carnage. Another rapid ascent of the Black Dike with longtime friend and mentor, Chris Marks, saw him enjoying his first day out of the season runout over short screws, embracing spindrift and the experience of “Full Conditions.”

A mixed day at Echo Crag was next, entailing quality climbing on Scottish Gully, Lip Service, and the Hermit Wall. Then, just prior to Thanksgiving, I made the rounds on Standard, Dracula, and the Penguin at Frankenstein. All were fully formed and fully enjoyable.

Most recently, I’m back from the spectacular routes in Thunder Bay, Ontario. I only had a couple days there because I was en route driving through Canada (a story for another time) but the place was a blast. Majka and I climbed ice choked corners and chimneys in high concentration. Cedars iced in at the cliff edge made for worthy anchors and easy descents. I’d recommend this area to anyone.

*Majka Burhardt contemplating her line and cauliflower formations in the Ice Palace, Thunder Bay, Ontario.

Bottom line is that ice and mixed climbing options abound for all abilities. If you need ideas for objectives, or want to check conditions, stop by IMCS. It’s time to get after it, and start swinging, because we’ve only got 4 months left of winter.

--Peter Doucette

IMCS Day Camp

2008-07-26T10:24:00.000-07:00

Summer's here and our IMCS Rock camps are underway.

Check out some of our day campers climbing on Cathedral Ledge.

There is still room in our August day camps.

Call 603-356-7064 to sign up for one, two or all three days!

Thursday June 5th: 9 year old Catherine Kimmel Summits Mount Washington in the Fog!

2008-06-14T07:02:00.000-07:00

Catherine and guide Peter Doucette at the summit

Catherine and her proud dad, David

Hiking up on the wet rocks was not too challenging for Catherine

In fact, she managed to take the lead at times

Crossing the snow fields was not a problem either

Catherine hangs out in the alpine garden

(waiting for Dad and Peter... ?)

Dad and Catherine

Getting down was a piece of Cake

Great job Catherine! We are so proud of you.

Brad White's Family Vacation: Climbing in Sardinia Italy

2008-05-13T13:24:00.001-07:00

Ian White (age 17) leads a Sport 5+ (5.10 A) at Cala Fulli near the beach.

Lauren White ( age 13) leads a 4C (5.7) near the beach. Her first lead!

Lauren White ( age 13) Starts up a 5+ ( 5.10 A) in the Cave on the fourth day.

Sardinia Coastline

Brad leads a 5 (5.9) Sport route in the cave.

Cala Fulli at the end of the coast road. Many short sport routes right on the beach.

Ian White (age 17) leads a 5+ (5.9 +) the cave.

The Cave on the fourth day. A 20 minute hike from Cala Gonome up the coast. A beach sand bottom makes for a wonderful place to hang out for the day with the family.

Climbing at Looking Glass

2008-05-13T11:23:00.001-07:00

I took a break from winter and the IMCS office and went down to Looking glass rock in North Carolina.

I went with my good friend,
Juliet Dickinson, of Conway, NH

Here is a view of the cliff at a distance.

We stayed in a beautiful little cottage at the "Pine's Country Inn"
(this one was not a dirt bag trip...)

We climbed the "Rat's Ass", a well protected crack

and "The Nose"

It was beautiful exposed granite

with sometimes scary run-outs between these dents they call "the eyebrows".

F-bomb slide show & benefit for the AAC

2008-04-03T09:34:00.000-07:00

Spread the word! The American Alpine Club is holding it's first annual Dirtbag Dinner and Slide Show on Saturday, April 12, 6:30 PM at I.M.E. This year's event features MWV-local Freddie Wilkinson, brought to us by Sterling Rope.

The goal of this new event is to bring together existing and future AAC members for a fun, inspiring, (& affordable) evening. The Dirtbag Dinner and Slide Show is FREE and OPEN to the public. We'll be at the door accepting donations for the American Alpine Club, signing up new members, renewing old members, and selling raffle tickets to win free stuff from Sterling, Mountain Hardwear, and the AAC.

Sterling Rope will also be holding a special raffle for their revolutionary Rope Redemption Program. Bring in any old, beat-up cord from the bottom of your closet and get a raffle ticket to win a brand, spakin' new Sterling Rope!!!

Click here to learn more about the benefits of being involved in the AAC.

VIDEO: IMCS guide Paul Cormier ice climbing in Cody, Wyoming

2008-03-22T09:00:00.000-07:00

CHECK IT OUT!!!

Or click here to view the video on YouTube.

Cathedral Sees more Action

2008-03-06T11:09:00.000-08:00

A great ice season allowed four new mixed routes to be established on Cathedral Ledge. IMCS guides either established, or managed one of the few repeats, before warm temps nuked the cliff . Here's photos from two of the routes...

Our guy, Fred Wilkinson (above), doing the third ascent of the Intimidating Bicycle Ride NEI 5+ R M6+, this route was established by two other IMCS guides, Peter Doucette and Dan Corn in late February.

Another IMCS guide, me, clipping a good friends gear on a great route, the Frozen Beast (NEI 6), below the Prow. Ray Rice went back and succesfully lead the route the next day, ground up, placing gear, like god intended.

Doug Madara also put up two other great routes, both clock in at about NEI 5+ R, I only had the pleasure of repeating one of them, Underground Kinetics, before it warmed up. There are photos of the other, Jack on Ice, posted on Anne Skidmore's blog at anneskidmore.blogspot.com.

Guides Bayard Russell and Elliot Gaddy Reclimb New Ground on Cathedral Ledge

2008-02-15T16:19:00.000-08:00

Note: Steve Larson and Marc Chauvin had climbed the whole Mordor Wall, aid climbing to the ice and ice climbing to the top of the cliff in one of the huge ice years of the late 70's, 1979. Larson said he didn't recall any memorable difficulties once on they got onto the ice.

The Mordor/Pendulum Roof, climber visible above the right hand column.

Photo by Ian Austin.

I've been looking at the icicle that forms between Cathedral Ledge's Mordor and Pendulum Roofs for years wondering if it would go. The other day fellow IMCS guide Elliot Gaddy and I decided to go have a look.

The problems with this beaitiful pitch is access. There is no straight forward way to get to it. You could climb on of the aid routes like the Mordor Wall, or maybe even rappel into it, but neither of these options were what I was looking for. I wanted to climb up to it like I climb any other winter route around here, with my ice tools and my crampons starting at the bottom of the cliff and climbing to the top.

We started up Standard Route about 11:00am, a North Conway alpine start, knowing we had plenty of time. After the first pitch we headed right to the Diagonal dike and things started getting interesting. There was tons of snow on every ledge and the dike was covered too. In the best conditions this pitch is a pain in the ass, but when its like this its scary; hidden sloping footholds and hard to find gear of which there isn't a tremendous amount to start with. Finally at the base of the Diagonal column, we took a hard right and I drilled a v-thread. I was now about sixty feet above the left side of a fifty foot long ledge, the Sidewalk, on the right of which the icicle I wanted to climb spills onto. I downclimbed great ice to the ledge, enjoying a toprope in an incredible setting. Eventually Elliot joined me.

Once reorganized, it was time to have a closer look at what we came for. After traversing across the snow covered ledge I started up the ice covered snow to the base of the column above. The climbing was easy and eventually I started getting gear, and to my surprise, it just kept on coming. Running low on excuses I found myself, my double ropes clipped through three cams at the height of the curtain, standing comfortably below an enormous granite roof and behind an unlikely column of ice, realizing that this thing might actually go.

Usually, the curtain dangled off the lip of the roof innaccessably, but this was the second time it had touched down this year and I couldn't let another opportunity pass me by. The spurt that formed the colulm actually came out the backside of the curtain, below the roof. In these conditions, the column gave gave me something to lean out from to get to the curtain another four feet away. It was like leaing out a four foor ice roof and swinging above it with your feet out horizontally in front of you, but instead of a solid wall the curtain was only a few inches thick. After a few false starts I got it together and went for it, once again I was pleasantly surprised, this time finding good, relatively solid ice. It took about four or five swings to get high enough to get a crampon into the thin curtain and to get my feet below me. This was plenty of time to get pumped, but Elliot was cheering me on, and encouraging the idea into realty. In a short while I was standing on a slab placing a screw, no more weight on my arms, and wondering at the fact that I was where I was, somewhere I had wanted to be for a long time.

In the final forty feet to the belay I placed a lot of screws, not sure if my swollen forearms were going to give out on the simple grade 4 terrain. We decided to belay at the very point that the cliff's angle kicks back, a wonderful spot to hang out overlooking the valley. Elliot cruised the pitch and quickly lead the final hundred feet to the trees. We coiled our ropes and hiked down, breaking trail most of the way.

IMCS guides SEND BIG in Patagonia

2008-02-12T09:04:00.001-08:00

IMCS guides Freddie Wilkinson and Dana Drummond have just completed a massive traverse of the Fitz Roy group in Argentine Patagonia.

Check out the breaking news story in Climbing magazine's HOT FLASHES.

Congratulations, Freddie and Mad Dog!

Peter Doucette and Freddie Wilkinson climb new route on Cannon

2008-01-11T10:15:00.000-08:00

Firing Line NEI5+ M6

FA: Peter Doucette and Freddie Wilkinson 1/4/08

On January 4th Freddie Wilkinson and I did three new pitches left of Omega. Our route, Firing Line, began when we exited Omega from the left edge of the large belay ledge below its crux curtain.

Leaving Omega, I traversed left across the large ledge to find a short and unexpected knife blade crack. Pulling a couple strenuous moves I worked up and left to another large ledge. Lassoing a huge block and small iced chockstone, I built a belay below a right-facing corner that offered possibility. (M5 80ft).

Freddie grabbed the next lead. Stepping off our belay block into the corner system he found torque cracks, turf shots, and just enough ice for upward progress. The crux came as the corner dead-ended into a steep bulge. Working out the bulge sequence involved the use of an iced fin and a bit of laybacking. Above, several moves up left led him to a short blocky alcove and a belay of pins and rock gear. The pitch protected surprisingly well though the gear was challenging to place. The corner and its exit moves offered sustained, excellent, and sometimes delicate climbing. (M6 90ft).

Our final pitch was entirely ice, except its final two body lengths. I left the alcove belay heading right, moving up on thin ice and over a few funky mushroom overhangs of increasing mass. Next, I worked into a cave that had a 12 ft. freestanding pillar drooling down its right side, I corkscrewed around behind it and found some excellent rock gear then continued around it’s front, to the side that faces Omega. Pulling up on the weathered freestander, near the top off the cliff, I eyed the horizon for my exit. Another pillar much more stout than the last poured from the base of a 4” crack. A top this pillar, after a few more moves on rock I pulled over the top and into the strangely welcoming waist-deep shrubbery, completely
psyched. (NEI5+ M4 120ft).

Freddie followed quickly and topped out beside me. As the light faded, nearly a whole day's worth of climbing was descended in two 60m rappels. We left a sling anchor on the top and a nut and sling at the chockstone belay at the end of the traverse pitch.

-Peter Doucette

Ski Whitehorse!

2008-01-10T10:51:00.000-08:00

IMCS guides Dan Corn and Jim Surette made a recent ski descent of Whitehorse Ledge. Check out photographer Anne Skidmore's Bivouac Blog for some shots of their adventure!

Mount Washington on Saturday

2007-12-18T15:44:00.000-08:00

More pictures coming soon...

Here's Kristine Leclerc on her first trip up the "Rockpile"...

Yes! Here's Brad's photos of Al Hospers on Gulley #1

2007-12-18T15:39:00.000-08:00

Ice anyone?

2007-12-14T11:59:00.000-08:00

Anyone climbed anything fun lately? Come on, post up!

Pinnacle Buttress to Standard Route

2007-12-01T07:30:00.000-08:00

From 70 degrees in Huntington's ...

Matt Tonielli on Pinnacle Buttress (mid September)

To 15 degrees at Frankenstein ...

IMCS Guide Craig John on Standard Route (Wednesday Nov 28)

2007-11-30T15:26:00.000-08:00

Last Sat. Frank Carus & I went to Willard. We saw Pete Doucette and Chris Marks on "Snot Rocket" We climbed Gully # 1 1/2. The season is here.
Paul Cormier

alpine reminiscence

2007-11-29T16:35:00.000-08:00

This time of year it seems like folks are either just settling in after a fall trip, or they are getting geared up for a winter trip. I'll be sticking around the valley this winter, but I thought I'd share a couple shots from my last trip. Janet Bergman, Doug Byerly, Doug Madara, and Jim Surette and I spent a few weeks in the Bugaboos this past August. We arrived right at the tail end of an incredible weather window---just enough time to check out the scene, do a warm-up route, and get psyched. Then, of course, the storms hit.

IMCS Winter "What's New" Letter

2007-11-20T11:21:00.000-08:00

Greetings from International Mountain Climbing School (IMCS) and International Mountain Equipment (IME) in North Conway New Hampshire. We are entering into our 34th year of providing equipment, guiding and instruction for Rock, Ice, and International Expeditions. In the mountains, in the world around us, and in life in general, things change (like Global warming) and things stay the same. This is true with IMCS as well.

We have had quite a number of people ask if we could be more pro-active in getting the word out about our International Trips and instructional programs. As some of you may know, we have not done a catalog or mailing in a few years now. The price of printing and mailing a catalog was becoming prohibitively expensive, not to mention the tremendous amount of paper required just to stay in touch. So here we are, being pulled, kicking and screaming, into the 21st century. We cannot escape the world of email, blogs, and the internet. We hope that this seasonal "What's New?" letter will better inform you of what we are doing and where we are going. Our website (www.ime-usa.com) is still the best source of information on our programs.

What has changed and what has stayed the same?

The first major change is that one of the owners of IMCS has moved on. Maury McKinney, long time co-owner and director of IMCS is heading in a new direction. Maury, originally from Florida, is a lifelong swimmer and has always had a passion to coach and instruct aquatic sports. Maury is pursuing his dream of creating a world-class aquatic center right here in the Mt. Washington Valley. As of October 1st, 2007 Maury is no longer a director or an owner of IMCS. Maury will still work as a part-time guide for us and will do his best to accommodate requests. We will miss him here in the office but he is not going far away!

Long time owners Brad White and Rick Wilcox will continue to oversee the climbing school. Brad White will be the director of the climbing school and Rick Wilcox will continue to run International Mountain Equipment. In addition to her guiding responsibilities, IMCS guide Joan Lee-Elkin will be helping Brad in the office.

What's New?

International Trips:

We have one person interested in going to Argentina in January 2008 for our Tronador trip. He is aggressively looking for partners. This trip is coming right up so if anyone is interested give us a call or e-mail us at guides@ime-usa.com.

For more details on this trip check out:
http://ime-usa.com/imcs/expeditions/so_america/Tronodor/index.html

Nepal - Everest Base Camp:

Rick and Celia Wilcox have recently returned from their annual trek to Everest Base Camp where they successfully accompanied 16 clients to 19,000 feet and back. Please give them a call at IME if you are interested in next year's trip.

IMCS Guides get AMGA certifications:

We are proud to announce that this summer four of our IMCS guides took the AMGA guide's exam and passed with flying colors. Also this summer IMCS guide Elliot Gaddy took the AMGA Ten Day Guide Course and looks to take his exam next year.

Guides who passed the exam are:

Peter Doucette: Certified Rock Guide
Zeb Jakub: Certified Rock Instructor
Bayard Russell: Certified Rock Instructor
Beckett Honicker: Certified Rock Instructor

Congratulations to all!

Ice Fest 2008

We are working hard to set up our Ice Festival for 2008. The dates for the Ice Fest are Thursday February 7th through Sunday February 10th, here at International Mountain Equipment. IMCS guide Sarah Garlick is organizing this event. You can see what she is up to by checking the Ice Fest Blog on our Home page: http://www.icefest.blogspot.com/ As of now all clinics have space available and we are taking reservations. http://www.ime-usa.com/ice_festival/index.html

Winter arrives in the high country!

Winter has arrived in the mountains if not here in the valley. IMCS guide Peter Doucette and client David Kimmel successfully completed a Presidential Range traverse last week. They found themselves breaking through two feet of snow at times, with waist deep drifts. Check out their adventure here on the Guides' Blog.

Eager to check conditions out, owner Brad White along with his son Ian and Ian's high school football coach (former professional football player for the New England Patriots, Drew Inser) summited Mt. Washington on Sunday, November 11th via the Ammonoosuc Ravine Trail. They descended the Jewell trail from Mt. Clay, completing a spectacular nine mile loop with over 100 miles of visibility on all sides and a balmy 14 degrees F.

On Wednesday, November 14th, Brad further investigated the arrival of winter with a venture into Tuckerman's Ravine. Brad went up for some early season ice with friend and fellow IMCS guide, Al Hospers. Things were a bit too warm (40 F) to accomplish their goal of an ascent of the center headwall because of melting ice hanging from above. They did swing the tools and run some laps on good ice on the lower right side in an area called the Open Book . You can check out this trip and how the ravine looked on Al's website: http://www.neclimbs.com/

We have not given up on rock climbing yet. Down low in the valley things are still warm enough on the south faces. Brad got some climbing in on Humphreys Ledge here in North Conway on Saturday with the thermometer reading around 42 F and in the sun the climbing was pleasant. Humphreys Ledge offers a good selection of intermediate rock climbing in the 5.6-5.9 range that is in the sun all day. This is still a great time
of year to do climbs such as Hotter than Hell (5.9) to upper Inferno on the South Buttress of Whitehorse Ledge in North Conway.

More information will be coming soon on the new AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Program (SPI) this spring. We will be offering this course in May as well as all summer once the program is fully established by the AMGA.

One of the most important assets of International Mountain Climbing School has always been our guides. Our guides represent the heart and soul of our organization. Our guides are, first and foremost, climbers. If you were visiting the Mt. Washington valley this summer to climb or even just to sight-see you might have been drawn to Cathedral Ledge on a warm evening. You would have most likely run into a number of IMCS guides out climbing after a day of work. If you were in Alaska this spring, Africa this summer, or in Nepal in the last few weeks, we were there. If you were in Yosemite, Zion, Red Rocks, India, or the Black Canyon in the last few months, again, we were there. You may have been on the summit of Mt. Washington this past Sunday or walking the Presidential Range. Some of us were there also. Sometimes we were there
just for fun. Sometimes what passes for fun is doing a major new route on one of the major peaks around the world.

In this day and age you have a lot of choices of where to go for climbing instruction. You can get one-stop shopping right where you live in the cities if you go to the rock gyms and the adventure outfitters. But think about what you would like to learn and from whom you would like to learn it. We do not just dream about going to the mountains, we live it everyday. It is part of who we are and what we do. We would love to share the mountains with you and help you reach your highest ambitions. We look forward to climbing with all of you in this upcoming year.

Sincerely,

Brad White and the guides of IMCS

International Mountain Climbing School
PO Box 1666
North Conway, NH 03860
(603) 356-7064
guides@ime-usa.com
http://www.ime-usa.com/imcs/index.html

Late Season Rock Climbing

2007-11-15T13:48:00.000-08:00

Its a great time of year for finding boulders, new cliffs and exploring now that all the leaves are down. Don't write it off! The south facing, sheltered cliffs are perfect on sunny days, climbing in T- shirts while listening to the wind blow and the pines sway in the valley below, only to hike out fully dressed after the sun sets. Soon enough the rock climbing will give way to the more brutal side of New Hampshire's climbing year but I like to drag the good times out as long as I can. Figure out where the wind is coming from and find the cliff that is pointing the other way. On a clear day the NW wind is totally off many of the the sport climbing crags that ring the White Mountains, allowing fully sheltered climbing while people freeze their butts off even on the S. Buttress. This transition time offers quiet cliffs and often perfect temps, followed by the best of the ice season as the finicky early season drips come and go. After a bunch of rain, a cold snap makes the raddest routes, but they usually only last for a few days - figure out where they are. I'm not gonna say where and the websites won't either, go have a look! Thrashing around chasing a theory is as good as it gets, and you learn a ton.

First Presi-Traverse

2007-11-10T12:07:00.001-08:00

IMCS Guide Peter Doucette and David Kimmel of Rye, NY completed the first successful presi-traverse for the 2007/2008 winter season. And they did it in just two days in full conditions! Here are some pictures from their trip. Thanks for dropping these off, Pete!

Snow and Ice? on the Rock Pile

2007-11-10T11:48:00.001-08:00

Hi everyone,

I decided to dust off my boots and crampons and head up in to Tucks on Thursday to see if there was any ice forming. When I signed in at Pinkham I noticed a party was signed in with the objective to climb Pinnacle Gulley. Whew, I thought - kind of early. The hike was pretty non-eventful and I was alone most of the way. It was rocky at the beginning and then 6-8 inches of snow by the time I got to HoJo's. I never needed my crampons and the trail was already tracked by a few people.

When I got into Tucks, just as I was approaching the headwall I heard a shout. There were 5 climbers hanging out and taking turns on a top rope. It was pretty thin ice with running water all around. Turns out Dave L. from EMS had strung the top rope. Check out his pictures on NECLIMBS.com. When I got down to the parking lot, I ran into a Canadian party who had attempted to climb the Pinnacle buttress and backed off. They said they saw the other party who attempted the gulley and they too backed off. Anyways, looks like people are iching to get out there. Maybe one more week. Get psyched! Joan

2007-11-06T18:11:00.000-08:00

Hard to believe we were all going to work in shorts a few weeks ago...the snow fell low on the big rock pile up valley last night and the tomatoes are hanging low on the withered vine. It's almost time to sharpen the points and picks and hike uphill.....and rip some turns on the way down.

The Ice is Coming...

2007-11-05T13:55:00.001-08:00

That crisp bite to the morning air can only mean one thing... it's almost ice season! We're hard at work making plans for our annual Mount Washington Valley Ice Festival. It'll be held this year Feb 7-10, 2008. Check out the Ice Fest blog and the IMCS Ice Fest webpage for updates.

Welcome!

2007-11-05T13:53:00.000-08:00

Welcome to the official Guides' Blog for the International Mountain Climbing School. Check back here for news and updates by IMCS guides.