Bring your Friends!

Going ice climbing is awesome. Having your friends cheer you on as you swing your tools is even better. At IMCS if you bring a group we can help you put together an ideal weekend group-adventure.

The intrepid members of the Colby College Outing Club from Waterville, Maine participated in a two day mountain skills course.

Jim F. teaches club members how to hang off their tools, Photo: Eitan G.

Club members learned mountaineering skills like self arrest and crampon techniques then spent the rest of the day swinging tools into frozen waterfalls. Tired but smiling, the Outing Club members went back to their hostel to prepare the second day's mountain adventure.

Colby College Outing Club members swing into the steep ice at the Texaco Area, photo: Eitan G.

On day two the club members split up into groups to tackle some of the exciting gully climbs in the Whites. Fun and adventure was had by all on Willey's Slide, Cauliflower Gully, Hitchcock Gully and in other areas. The smiles said it all.

Climbing with a group from a college, office, or any other organization is a great way to share an incredible adventure with friends. Have a group? give us a call!

Lauren of Minnesota cruises one of New Hampshire's classic gullies, photo: Eitan G.







William, Sarah, and Lauren, All smiles at the top of the gully, photo: Eitan G.




Colby College Outing Club, we hope to see you again soon!

Way Out There

When people think about winter adventures in New Hampshire they usually dwell on a few classics. Oft heard names like, Mount Washington, Crawford Notch, and Franconia Notch are home to some of the areas most popular hikes and climbs. These areas are popular for a two reasons, they are incredible and they get a lot of press! What many people don't know, is that there are plenty of other spectacular sites for adventure in the Whites that are as phenomenal. These hidden treasures simply don't have as good PR and as such, lack the hoards of weekend warriors that come through the notches.

IMCS Guide Maury Mckinney took his clients on a three-day, two-night winter backpacking excursion into the rugged Mahoosucs on the New Hampshire-Maine boarder. The group spent their days hiking through tranquil and seldom seen winter landscapes that stretched as if endless. As they hiked, the group didn't see a single other soul giving their experience a true wilderness flavor.














With so many years experience in the area, guides like Maury take clients to parts of the Whites they never even knew existed. Sure we can take you to the more popular winter mountaineering destinations. However, if you really want to tap into the knowledge your guide has to offer, consider an adventure, 'way out there'.

School on Vacation?!

While the guides at IMCS love to lead people up the climbs of their dreams we don't forget that we are a climbing school, not only a guide service, and we pride ourselves on our knowledge about climbing and ability to share that knowledge with others.

In fact, at any moment during a climb you could ask your guide what they are doing, why, and how and expect to learn something. Sure, we love to climb, but this is International Mountain Climbing School, we are here to teach.

Benni and Yitzi of the 'burbs of Boston take a break from swinging tools to learn about v-thread anchors, "look ma' no hands!"

A Spot O' Climbing in the Colonies

While some of David's limey colloquialisms left IMCS guide Eitan Green confused, after two days of spectacular New England gully climbing in Crawford Notch it was obvious what David of Bristol, UK meant when he smiled and said he was, "totally knackered".

David was looking for a winter mountain adventure that would remind him of his home stomping grounds on Scotland's Ben Nevis but that would step the technical climbing up a notch. Eitan chose Shoestring Gully on Mount
David cruising the Ice on Shoestring Gully
Photo: Eitan Green
Webster as the perfect site for David's

adventure. Luckily, the gully's southern aspect meant the two were exposed to the sun for the majority of the day and they stayed comfortable, despite the extremely cold temperatures.



The next day the pair took on Mount Willard's Hitchcock Gully which, though a bit shorter than Shoestring, stepped up the technical difficulties a bit. By the end of the two days David's huge grin and his invitation for a pint said it all. David on the exit gully at the top of Shoestring, still smiling
Photo: Eitan Green

Choose Your Line

Richard P. about to top out Repentance in" full conditions." -photo: Peter Doucette

What can I get in, or on, in a weekend?

It’s a question I hear frequently as climbing goals, life, and work schedules collide.

The answer, of course, varies a great deal with the skill set an individual has already developed. That said, an amazing transformation in one’s climbing  technique and enjoyment of the pursuit can take place in a couple days with a thoughtful choice of routes and the right progression.

My best climbs are those that teach me: routes that have required me to adapt my technique, find rests where I wasn’t sure they existed or ferret out not so obvious protection. This is the case, I think, no matter where you are in the spectrum of climbing skill or experience. On great climbs, there is always a move or set of moves that stretch your skills, strength and sense of cunning. Acknowledge challenges, recognize possibility, measure it against experience and commit… or back off and try a different way…or come back another time. As long as you’re getting after it, the process builds on itself. The right teacher, in the form of friend, guide, or mentor can accelerate the learning and help maintain a larger margin of safety.

Choosing climbs that teach you something, adventures that challenge you without being overwhelming is the main idea. This past weekend, I got out with Richard and we were able to climb some exceptional pitches and ultra classic terrain.

Saturday, we started by shaking off the cold and working the kinks out in the vicinity of Texaco Amphitheater. The air temp was –10 when we left IMCS in the morning, but by the time we had finished our half-hour approach, the coldest part of the day was behind us. We enjoyed the sun and the gradually softening ice as we explored a lot of single pitches and a huge variety of features. Pillars that dead ended under roofs, curtains spilling out from horizontal cracks and ice choked chimneys were ideal for getting footwork and balance dialed in.

Richard staying fresh at the top of one more steep pillar.  -photo: Peter Doucette   

Sunny and steep at Texaco.  -photos: Peter Doucette

After a day that focused on technique and movement over seven varied pitches, Richard had his “A Game” back and we set our sights on an ascent of Repentance, Sunday.

Rolling into the parking lot at Cathedral Ledge, it was clear that snow wasn't just the forecast, it was the reality. Fortunately, the 4 inches of fresh powder let us know there wasn’t anyone ahead of us. It continued to snow with amazing intensity and the day was regularly punctuated by cascades of spindrift. 

Repentance was in excellent shape and Richard fired the moves in good style the entire way.

A Super Nice Cold Classic Day of Ice Climbing with IMCS. Guide Zebulon Jakub and climber Bill Breyer!

Frankenstein. Standard Route. Crawford Notch!



Gearing up at Frankenstein!


Super nice footwork on the way up.


Still on great but super nice hard brittle ice!


Bill Breyer in SUPER style on the top pillar!



Here Bill Breyer gets up top!

A Season For The Opportunist

Majka Burhardt heads for the belay below the cave on Omega Dec '08 Photo: Peter Doucette
It’s probably “IN” right now--the route that you’ve been wanting to get on. This season has already displayed a wild mix of conditions with routes forming and falling off and growing back again. So far, it’s been a season for the opportunist.

Just before Christmas it was Omega with ice, yellow and alive stretching uncharacteristically to the ground! Majka and I climbed it on a bone cold but eventually enjoyable day.


Majka, high on Quartet. Photo by Peter Doucette

The next highlight of my season was climbing Quartet to the top of Cannon. Well-formed first pitches led to more mixed ground and welcome turf placements. After the first two pitches it was all new ground for me. We discovered an old fixed anchor (pin and nut) in the middle of nowhere, five or so pitches into our adventure. I took the piton out with a thumb and forefinger then replaced it with a little fresh steel. A final smear of ice and a delicate move to top one last overlap, allowed us to gain the scrubby trees crowning the cliff. The walk across to the descent trail above the Whitney-Gilman, was a bit of a “shwack” with some chest deep wallowing and sporty boulder-hopping adding to the full-value Cannon experience.

More recently, Cathedral has come into its own with Repentance and Remission both well formed. The chimney on Remission was wild before the thaw, with a lattice of ice and verglas that was better for visual appreciation than upward gain. Still, we persevered, finding gear just when things started to look desperate and topped out remembering exactly how good the winter climbing on Cathedral really is.

Just the other day, I snuck in three routes on Frankenstein- all new to me. A mixed line beginning on rock and exiting on ice in the vicinity of Widow’s Run, was steep, requiring a few balancey maneuvers above decent protection. Cocaine and Wrath of the Valkyrie (in the amphitheater left of the Fang) were also in spectacular shape. The final moves of each were a little touch-and-go but remained just probable enough to make me commit.


Peter Doucette, right of Widow's Walk. Photo: Majka Burhardt


Majka climbing Cocaine Jan'09. Photo by Peter Doucette



*History/humor note: On the second ascent of Wrath of the Valkyries. The leader tossed a rack of pitons, attached to a rope, which tangled in a birch tree. The rope was then ascended to gain the last twenty feet. For those who are interested, there are now a few fixed pieces that can be supplemented to protect the exit dry-tooling. Though, for those feeling lucky the piton/birch option remains.

The feeling of reaching the top of these rarely formed routes or swinging into a column or smear that may only exist a hand full of days a year is extremely satisfying. As someone who waits and watches and seeks out ephemeral ice lines I’m fired up every time the conditions and my climbing days align. The good news is, the season is in full swing. Now, quality options abound and satisfaction, in the frozen form, is that much easier to come by.

The weather and cold temps seems to be stabilizing at least for a while. This should give climbs a chance to gain a little more mass and perhaps let more rarely formed routes to develop. Mid-week has been quiet at the cliffs, so if there’s a classic but often crowded climb you’re interested in getting on, give IMCS a call.