Cannon, Cathedral, and a Little Bit of Wind.

Last week I climbed with Dick, from Pennsylvania.  The plan was to climb Moby Grape, the classic 5.8 on Cannon Cliff, but Cannon has a way of backhanding plans pretty quickly.  On day one, we did some classic Cathedral routes to get in shape for the big cliff, and Dick dispatched Still in Saigon and Turner's Flake with ease during our half-day.  Despite cold in the forecast, we met early and headed to Cannon.
As I led Reppy's crack, the wind picked up, and comme d'habitude for Cannon, it felt more like Patagonia or Alaska than a "roadside" crag.  With numb hands, I started belaying, but we made the decision pretty quickly that Moby Grape in the 30 degree temperatures was not worth the suffering.
"Back to Cathedral," Dick cried.  So we rallied, and were soon enclosed in the wonderful, secure, classic climbing on Funhouse and Upper Refuse.

Franconia Notch

Hiking down the talus...a common occurrence on cannon.

Sometimes plans don't work out, but with climbing, if you're canny and keen, sometimes it doesn't matter.  It was a great two days guiding with a solid, amicable partner.  

Changing Seasons!!!

The Black Dike 11/7/12

The climbing's always interesting this time of year.  In a five day span, I got to climb ice, alpine, mixed, sport, and trad, all within an hour-and-a-half of North Conway! 
Ice is always here before you know it.  It's chilly in town, but places like Cannon Cliff and Huntington Ravine get early season ice overnight.  IMCS guide Erik Eisele and AMGA guide Ryan Stefiuk cruised up the Black Dike on Election Day, kicking off the ice season!  Check out a report of the climb at Ryan's awesome website, www.bigfootmountainguides.com, and an article by Erik about chasing early season ice here.
On the 7th, I soloed the Dike and climbed Damnation Gully in Huntington's in one long, tiring day.  It was great fun, and always nice to take the tools out this early.

Soloing early season ice!!!

The climb was exciting, replete with a stuck rope and scratchy topout.  Read a full report of the day at www.neice.com, New England's home for ice and mixed conditions.  After a run up the awesome alpine terrain of Damnation, I needed a rest day.  While I was feeling sorry for myself, Ryan called, hungry for more early-season action on Cannon.  We bailed on an incredibly thin Fafnir.  Erik Eisele, Ryan and I tried this climb in November two seasons ago, with similar results.  The snowy, slabby, poorly bonded climbing on cannon is exponentially harder at the start of the season. 

Erik Eisele seconding the middle pitch on Fafnir, early November, 2010.  The ice was not so thick this year.

We got my stuck rope off the Black Dike and wandered around, looking for something engaging. Cannon excels as a training venue because of its endless potential for traditionally protected winter mixed climbing.  We settled on Sam's Swan Song, supposedly one of the best mixed climbs on the cliff.  I got into the crux section just as the sun came out and the ice above began to drop down.  We bailed, again, but we'll be back.

Sam's Swan Song, 1rst pitch.  Photo Courtesy Ryan Stefiuk.  

On the 10th, I teamed up with Erik for some sport climbing action.  Taking whippers at Shagg Crag seemed a pleasant antidote to Cannon's no-fall ethic.  Joining us were Scott Bubnis and IMCS guide Elliot Gaddy.  We soaked up the rays and heckled.

The Last Unicorn!

Can't believe it's November.

Local crusher and Atlantic Climbing School guide Alexa Siegel was keen for one more day of trad climbing.  She's a terrific all around climber, and with a half-day at our disposal on monday, we headed up to Whitehorse.  The Last Unicorn, the cliff's classic 5.10, was dry!  After an interesting stick-clip-tension-traverse (don't ask) over a wet slab on the approach pitch, we enjoyed awesome positioning and great climbing.  What a week!  It's a great reminder that we live in an area that allows us to do everything, regardless of the weather, and regardless of the season.  Come on up and get after it!!!

Ice Fest is on Schedule!

Come join us for the 2010 Mount Washington Valley Ice Festival!
We're hosting a long, fun filled weekend of ice climbing, mountaineering programs and skill clinics for all ability levels. There will also be gear demo programs, celebrity slideshows, and apres-climb parties. This years guest Guides and Instructors are Steve House, Jared Ogden, Mark Synnott, Kevin Mahoney, Janet Bergman and Fred Wilkinson.
Visit our website for more!

The Mount Washington Valley Ice Festival is one of the premier climbing events in the country. Join us as we celebrate the adventure, the fun, and the comradery of ice climbing and winter mountaineering, here in one of the finest waterfall ice climbing destinations in North America. This year we are also offering an AIARE Level I Avalanche Course.

Sign up Today! 603-356-7064
We are now taking reservations for Ice Fest 2010 courses and clinics. You must register in advance for all clinics and climbs, payment must be made in full . If you have questions about a specific clinic or guided climb please give us a call at 603-356-7064.Let us know what you want to do and we will do our best to find the right fit or we can design a private course for you. Sign up Now!

Time Off

It is not only great guiding that sets the guides at IMCS apart from the many guide services in the Mount Washington Valley. Here at IMCS when we are not teaching others how to do what we love we are out ‘getting after it’, climbing harder, higher, and stronger.

In the beginning of this February IMCS guide Eitan Green went on his second trip to Maine’s Mount Katahdin. At 5,270 feet high Katahdin is Maine’s tallest peak and as Rick Wilcox writes, “the most rugged piece of granite east of the Rockies.

Eitan and three other climbers skied 13 miles and hiked another 3.3 miles to Chimney pond where they made their base camp. From chimney pond the group climbed about 1,500 feet of mixed rock and ice up the route Pamola IV. Katahdin offers spectacular alpine ice and mixed routes, some over 2,000 feet tall. For those who have been-there-done-that on Mount Washington, a trip to Katahdin is truly something special.

Ice Fest 2009

This year we proved that an army does march on its stomachs. Jam packed days of ice climbing with the pros were followed by food from NEIce's Doug Millen and beer provided by Tuckermans. When the food and beer were gone, we all got up early and did it again!

Ice Festers alpine climbed in Huntington's ravine, Mixed climbed at Trollville, and did some good ole' swingin' and kickin' at Frankenstein cliffs. Collectively, ice festers covered tens of thousands of feet of vertical terrain in the Mount Washington Valley. If you were there, you know how amazing the IceHoldz competition was as well as Kevin's slideshow about climbing Kantega, and I am sure you didn't miss the musical stylings of Audio Kickstand or Rick Wilcox's retro photos at Mammut's Knuckle Bash Dance Party.

If you did miss the ice fest, well, put it on your calender for next year right now, or, even better, give IMCS a call and schedual your own day of spectacular ice climbing or mountaineering in the Mount Washington Valley. For those who came, see you next year!

Oh Yeah, and a HUGE thanks to Anne S. and Sarah G., the Ice Fest masterminds for an incredible weekend!

Bring your Friends!

Going ice climbing is awesome. Having your friends cheer you on as you swing your tools is even better. At IMCS if you bring a group we can help you put together an ideal weekend group-adventure.

The intrepid members of the Colby College Outing Club from Waterville, Maine participated in a two day mountain skills course.

Jim F. teaches club members how to hang off their tools, Photo: Eitan G.

Club members learned mountaineering skills like self arrest and crampon techniques then spent the rest of the day swinging tools into frozen waterfalls. Tired but smiling, the Outing Club members went back to their hostel to prepare the second day's mountain adventure.

Colby College Outing Club members swing into the steep ice at the Texaco Area, photo: Eitan G.

On day two the club members split up into groups to tackle some of the exciting gully climbs in the Whites. Fun and adventure was had by all on Willey's Slide, Cauliflower Gully, Hitchcock Gully and in other areas. The smiles said it all.

Climbing with a group from a college, office, or any other organization is a great way to share an incredible adventure with friends. Have a group? give us a call!

Lauren of Minnesota cruises one of New Hampshire's classic gullies, photo: Eitan G.







William, Sarah, and Lauren, All smiles at the top of the gully, photo: Eitan G.




Colby College Outing Club, we hope to see you again soon!

Way Out There

When people think about winter adventures in New Hampshire they usually dwell on a few classics. Oft heard names like, Mount Washington, Crawford Notch, and Franconia Notch are home to some of the areas most popular hikes and climbs. These areas are popular for a two reasons, they are incredible and they get a lot of press! What many people don't know, is that there are plenty of other spectacular sites for adventure in the Whites that are as phenomenal. These hidden treasures simply don't have as good PR and as such, lack the hoards of weekend warriors that come through the notches.

IMCS Guide Maury Mckinney took his clients on a three-day, two-night winter backpacking excursion into the rugged Mahoosucs on the New Hampshire-Maine boarder. The group spent their days hiking through tranquil and seldom seen winter landscapes that stretched as if endless. As they hiked, the group didn't see a single other soul giving their experience a true wilderness flavor.














With so many years experience in the area, guides like Maury take clients to parts of the Whites they never even knew existed. Sure we can take you to the more popular winter mountaineering destinations. However, if you really want to tap into the knowledge your guide has to offer, consider an adventure, 'way out there'.